Back in the day, i.e. 1993, The Rembrandt Hotel on Sukhumvit Soi 18, opened if not Bangkok’s first Mexican restaurant, then pretty close. Certainly the first upscale one.
Chiming rhythmically with the salsa dance craze, “Senor Pico” proved it had legs to match and despite Mexican food aficionados being notoriously opinionated, secured a strong following. However, as it inspired a splurge of rival Mexican eateries across the city it has bordered on becoming a victim of its own success.
But not so fast, amigo! The restaurant has recently relaunched with mostly the same Chihuahuacantina-style décor, now festooned with Dia de los Muertos (Day of the Dead) bunting, but a different culinary philosophy, as “Mexicano”, a Spanish word meaning, well, Mexican, but in the sense of being the real deal.
“Some newer arrivals seem to have strayed from the food’s roots,” explains Mexicano’s affable Brand Ambassador, Pedro, from Aguascalientes aka “Hot Water City”, one of two “autentico” Mexicans ensuring the restaurant’s fidelity to the red, white and green flag in mucho dishes, the other being, the highly focused Carlos Bravo, Head Chef.
Pedro’s alluding to Tex-Mex, a hybrid cuisine created north of the border that purists dismiss as a corruption. (Real Mexican was the first cuisine to attain UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity status).
Mexicano now doubles down on the signature dishes of various Mexican provinces, cherry picking the tastiest recipes and executing them as near the originals as possible. While it is impractical to source all ingredients from Mexico, it is possible to find substitutes for the least accessible items that fool even expert hombres.
Start with a poignant Passionfruit Margarita – lemon, passionfruit and 1 oz of tequila in a sombrero phat, salt-rimmed glass.
Then savour uber-juicy Ceviche De Atun Y Huachinango – orange and lemon-marinated tuna and sea bass mixed with bell peppers, mango, avocado, coriander, onion and jalapenos, served on a bed of crushed ice under a frisson of rosarie, spinach and plain flour tortilla shreds with chips on the side for scooping. A Corona Michelada (beer, tomato, chilli, Maggi and seasoning) makes a perfect complement.
If you’ve brought more than one mouth to feed, stack up some delicious quesadillas – a giant grilled flour tortilla nestling homemade chorizo sausage with melted mozzarella and cheddar cheese in its folds, served with pico de gallo (Mexican flag) fresh tomato sauce and sour cream condiments.
Sonora soft flour tortillas, again flying the flag, burst with crispy seabass re-fried in tempura batter, juxtaposed with a citrusy salad of cauliflower, carrot, chipotle mayonnaise, avocado. Originally from the northern coastal region of Baja California, locals there make it with lobster which is plentiful in those parts but prohibitively pricey here. Whatever: the crispy outside fluffy inside meaty fish version is superb.
For an authentica Mexican grill experience, go for the Fajitas Supreme Espedatas: a giant skewer of char-grilled Australian ribeye, chicken and prawn rubbed with garlic, salt, bay leaf. Served with herb-marinated red rice, refried black beans with cheese on top, green (chilli) and red (tomato) salsas and fine grain tortillas, this is pure succulence.
Homemade ice creams sometimes include tuna (not the fish!) etc. Or for a piece de resistance try the homemade coconut flat (like crème caramel) with roasted pineapple, chocolate and pistachio ice cream.
Chef’s weekly recommendations are broadcast on a blackboard above the theatre kitchen. The bar cossets 50 tequilas, plus mescals and craft beers, as well as mixing a mean cocktail.
Open from 5 to midnight every day with live Mexican music every evening except Monday. El Brunch on Saturdays is a must.
This source first appeared on Bangkok Post Lifestyle.