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New sensations in silk

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THAI FABRICS don’t need the help of any modern flashy technology to attract buyers, says Polpat Asavaprapha. Their heritage and characteristically impeccable weaving – brought to life by creative and contemporary design – provide all the allure that’s necessary.

The president of the Bangkok Fashion Society and creative director at Asava made the remarks while helping unveil plans for the Contemporary Thai Fabric Project undertaken to celebrate Her Majesty the Queen’s birthday on August 12.

The Fashion Society and the Culture Ministry’s Office of Contemporary Art and Culture have organised a show for Monday at Central World. The participating designers are Chai Jiamkittikul of Chai Gold Label, Palath Palathi of Realistic Situation, Sirichai Daharanont of Theatre and Wisharawish Akkarasantisuk of Wisharawish.

Clothing made with traditional materials and inspired by local culture and wisdom will also be on view in a static exhibition at the mall from Tuesday through August 14.

Announcing the project last week with Polpat and Sirichai were Thanpuying Charungjit Teekara, deputy secretary to the Queen and assistant secretary general of the Support Foundation, Culture Minister Veera Rodpodchanarat and Isares Chirathiwat of Central World.

Veera affirmed that the project honours Her Majesty, who initiated national efforts to preserve classical Thai art and culture. The ministry encourages citizens to wear local fabrics more often, he said, and backs projects like this to demonstrate how traditional materials can easily suit modern tastes, not just at home but also overseas.

Fashion is one of the “5F’s” promoted by the ministry, Veera pointed out, the others being food, festivals, fighting (muay thai) and film.

Polpat said much of the Fashion Society’s focus is on passing knowledge on to the next generation of designers and spurring them to adapt their designs using traditional fabrics.

“Together with the Office of Contemporary Art and Culture, we will hold a series of events promoting the creative lifestyle, extending into next year,” he said. “Every August will be devoted to celebrations of Thai fabrics, fashion and lifestyle.

“Fabric is a raw material that can easily be adapted to different designs, just like the strokes of the brush in art, responding to cultural shifts.”

The four designers taking part in Monday’s fashion show have mainly used mudmee silk.

Chai of Chai Gold Label presented models wearing clothing suitable for daily wear, made with the silk in golden brown, yellow, gold and green. “I’ve incorporated my signature draping technique and the fabric looks soft and sensual, and we’ve done a lot of embroidering on the silk.”

Sirichai of Theatre, an expert in textiles, noted that Thai silk thread is quite narrow compared to other fabrics. He had design ideas in mind before going to the Sirikit Institution at Chitralada Villa to choose his fabrics, he said, but once saw the range of material available, he realised his designs would have to be more diverse.

Sirichai has crafted seven pieces for men using the selvage from bolts of mudmee silk – the tailored edges. In his modern concepts they become chic hems on shirts and jackets. “We haven’t used the whole piece of silk but rather just the selvage to decorate different items, such as a cotton shirt or jacket,” he said.

“The look is interesting – it was a challenge to create, but it’s a great combination of materials. The classical Siamese gentleman showed international flair. He’d wear a tailor-made silk top, such as a suit or tuxedo jacket, but his trousers were the traditional pha khao ma.”

Palath from Realistic Situation drew inspiration from the attire of the royal court of bygone days, adapting the outstanding details into his brand’s working concept. The shape of the clothing mixes graphic and classical design, and silk of unusual colours was selected.

Wisharawish, who comes from Buri Ram, utilises the lively hues of Isaan clothing in a cheery collection of embroidered mudmee that suggests festive celebrations.

Thanpuying Charungrit said the project offers further proof that the Queen was foresighted in launching the effort, through the Support Foundation, to conserve traditional skills and craftsmanship.

“Seeing more people wearing their fabrics makes the weavers very proud,” she said. “I remember well that when Her Majesty asked them to weave fabrics for her, they doubted she’d ever wear them, since they were only made by poor upcountry people.

“So when they saw Her Majesty wearing their fabrics and incorporating them into her own designs, the weavers were extremely proud. Now, if we can get the younger generation wearing their fabrics too, I’m sure it will really boost their spirits and they’ll be able to happily carry on their work.”

 

This source first appeared on The Nation Life.


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