The inadequate T-E transliteration often leads to accidental jokes. Therefore, Kinkao can mean “to eat rice, number nine or a knee (ouch!)” but the intermediate learners of the Thai language know it actually means to have a meal. Rice is such a staple in the Thai diet that it comes to symbolise food in general, you see. And yes, you can have more than rice at Kinkao, a new restaurant opened at Wishbeer about one month ago. To say that Kinkao is brand new isn’t 100% accurate as it started out as an online business which matches talented home cooks with customers. Kinkao 2.0 evolved into a service providing chefs to cook for you at your home. In its third version, Kinkao has partnered up with Wishbeer to set up its kitchen there and create a symbiosis, complementing the latter’s arsenal of craft beer with international flavours.
The vast and spacious venue of Wishbeer is best described as warehouse-chic and not in a bad way. We dig the rustic yet relaxed atmosphere of the place. It’s a place where you perch on high chairs around a big round table with beer in hand while shooting the s@%# with besties who have seen you drunk before. There are armchairs and sofas for when you’re in the mood for a low-key dinner too.
THE MENU
There are dishes from a surprising number of different cuisines — from French, Thai and fusion — contained in the two-page menu of Kinkao. The blackboard is where specials-of-the-day dishes are written on.
We’re off to an appetising starter with Spicy kurobuta (B200). Eight round pieces of pork retain a faint pinkish glow, showing signs of not being overcooked. The usually spicy dressing has been dialled down but still is quite potent. Another plus is that the veggies are so crunchy and refreshing. For this kind of price, we think the portion is a tad too modest, though.
The other Thai dish we give a thumbs-up to is Crispy morning glory (B250). The morning glory is battered and fried to an uber crunchiness. The tasty jumble contains bursts of flavours and textures. The dressing nicely blends sour, salty, spicy and sweet notes but those used to the light and spicy version may find it too mild. Not overly cooked prawns and minced pork lend some sweetness into this diverse and delicious mix.
We go for something from a different timezone next with Duo French sausages (B400). We have mixed feelings about merguez (lamb) sausage but lap up chipolata (pork) sausage. Merguez bursts with so many sparks of spices and offers some chewiness, while the pork sausage is just delightful with juiciness and herb aromas. The side of fries are good but not outstanding.
Baked raclette cheese (B270) hides warm chunks of potatoes sautéed in white wine underneath a delish layer of gooey cheese. Fried bacon adds a crunchy and salty touch to this comfort food. We would have scored it higher, had the potato spent a bit more time in the oven.
Bacon cheese burger (B300) is one heavyweight dish, giving you many mouthfuls. Conkey’s brioche never disappoints and the juicy patty is handmade with 120-day dry-aged Aussie beef. What’s more to love about this burger are the caramelised onions, fried bacon strips and cheddar cheese.
There are no desserts on the menu at the time of our visit. However, we reckon a bottle of fruit-flavoured beer or cider could do the same job.
INSIDER’S TIP
Samuel and Pakki, Kinkao co-founders, are cooking up new services. Their Master Kitchen gives an opportunity for professional or aspiring chefs to take over their kitchen at Wishbeer and offer a special menu. This could be a great way to taste their new creations on customers. Soon, Office Lunch will be launched too.
If you want to pair Kinkao food with beer, then definitely consider Wishbeer’s happy hours from 5-7pm every day except for on Thursdays when it occurs between 5-8 pm. Half pints and full pints are available for B120 and B200 from the normal prices of B160 and B290, respectively.
VALUE & VERDICT
Kinkao is about one-month old and in restaurant terms that is still embryonic. There is room for improvement here but it’s off to quite a good start. A night out with food and beer here shouldn’t disappoint. g
Kinkao
Thai/International ,Sun-Thu 5-10pm, Fri-Sat 5-11pm ,Wishbeer Home Bar, Sukhumvit Soi 67, BTS Phra Khanong Exit 1, www.facebook.com/kinkao.co, 089-779-8168
This source first appeared on Bangkok Post Lifestyle.