You need to be pretty confident of your plan to open a new Italian restaurant in Bangkok. But opportunity still knocks in the more cosmopolitan ‘hoods, such as Ruam Rudi, where Italics (sic) has carved such a deep niche since opening in April that it’s already entrenched.
Not surprising given that its masterminds are Michelin-starred James Noble, Mick Jagger’s erstwhile chef, and Anchalika Kijkanakorn, barefoot luxury Akaryn Hotel Group founder.
Noble’s idea was to combine Mediterranean cuisine and sustainable Thai ingredients but that, under current expat head chef, Kip Leting, has evolved into sourcing the best of what’s available locally while importing appellation products and proteins where optimum.
Set in a restaurant and cigar/whisky lounge enclave around Soi 3, Italics occupies a chic décor cabin — grey tiles over custard-colour plaster, black-tinted windows and a wooden deck with parasols.
Inside there’s a whiff of Venetian trattoria in the front area, where a delectable deli counter juxtaposes chalk boards (including one promising to swallow the bill if your order isn’t served inside 45 minutes), mirrors, buttonholed banquettes and monochrome panels of cows and glamour pusses. A larger rear dining room has a homier feel: pink and white cotton covered chairs with panel prints of favoured farms.
“Our focus is on fresh interpretations of classic Italian cuisine,” summarises Kip, adding: “we’re very particular about where our food comes from.”
As such, Akaryn Group’s own organic farm yields eggs, herbs and chilies. The burrata and ricotta are from Mille Stelle, mascarpone and mozzarella from Del Cassaro. Pork and sausages from Joe Sloane. Chicken for the roast is from Sirin Farm in Chiang Rai. Sweet-not-gamy, six-months, milk- and fruit-fed, baby lamb is raised by Company B in Khao Yai. Local duck is cured and smoked with oak, applewood and mesquite wood in-house. Arabica-based coffee is also Thai.
But Italics uses Saint Daniele Ham from Friuli, Parmigiano-Reggiano from Parma, Italian olive oil, Mortadella from Bologna, Coppa from Emilia Romagna, salami and nduja from Calabria, Some beef cuts from Australia imported by Foodiva, crabs from the Atlantic, and Kip prefers Mediterranean sea bream to sea bass — “the taste and texture are superior and you can cook it more interestingly.”
Antipasti leads to Primi (pizzas, pastas and salads), Secondi (mains), Dolci (desserts) and drinks on the “Italics’ Gourmet Menu”.
Milky, mushroom-soft Burrata Caprese with thick, oily, basil pesto and sweet/tart yellow and red cherry tomatoes is antipasti perfection.
Fresh truffle shavings add irresistible earthiness to several dishes. Juggling the antipodean seasons in Europe and Australia ensures permanency. Hokkaido scallop risotto with Kip’s “funky and salty but not overly cheesy” blend of 22-months Parmigiano-Reggiano and Pecorino Romano covered in black truffle is a ten.
Sea Crab Linguine blends brown crabs, Nduga salami and an insanely rich emulsion of blue swimmer crab. The combination of spicy charcuterie and intense crabbiness over definitively al dente homemade pasta is addictive.
Thin and crispy crust Roman-style pizzas are baked in a eucalyptus-fired brick oven and the specialist chef is wont to theatrically spin dough before your very eyes. Among the toppings, pumpkin & ricotta with sundried tomatoes and red onion is rightly billed a “secret weapon”.
Conclude with Banana Ricotta Cheesecake, hazelnut sauce & chocolate (the secret’s in Kip’s 75:25 ricotta/cream cheese split) or signature Chocolate Fondant with spicy Tanzanian chocolate and hazelnut ice cream.
Wines are mostly Italian “sold at good value prices”.
A sister restaurant is upcoming at Akyra Manor Chiang Mai.
italicsrestaurant.com
Open daily: 7am-11pm.
Tel. 02-253-2410.
Headchef@italicsrestaurant.com
This source first appeared on Bangkok Post Lifestyle.