If you live around Sathorn-Narathiwat-Rama III, you probably have trouble explaining where that is to the uninitiated. And find it even tougher convincing them that bars and restaurants are mushrooming all over.
So no excuses necessary from Pranai Phornprapha (yes, a scion of those Phornpraphas) and several shareholders for siting their restaurant-bar “destination” project “Thyme” at the Rama III end of Nang Linchi where mass transit’s a mirage but road access is amazing.
Greenfield sites can still be found and rents are lower, so so are menu prices. Moreover, this twin-storey in-vogue-industrial box isn’t challenged either for table or parking space.
So game-on for its “casual all-day modern European” concept and smattering of fusion concessions to the Thai-food fixated.
With its metal frame, widescreen roadside vista, epoxied-concrete, brickwork, wooden table tops, hanging ferns and incandescent light bulbs, the décor is attractive without monopolizing attention.
Ground floor, front-facing tables require booking but the chic vibe evenly pervades the neighbouring long bar and mezzanine dining area, where live bands play Thurs-Sat, and trendy private dining room.
The menu is co-created by dashing Spaniard Mario Rodriguez Gago and self-confessed foodie Pranai, a hook-up that came courtesy of Facebook, Mario being a cohort of Thyme’s original Michelin-experienced Spanish chef.
At heart, Thyme is a showcase for artisanal, mainly Spanish but also Italian and local produce curated into full-flavour Euro-centric culinary concepts.
Spanish charcuterie — patanegra, iberico etc. — is one specialty and Mario rightly claims that Thyme’s dry-aged and cured Cecina beef compares favourably with competing charcuterie. Especially when the intriguingly purple “Spanish Wagyu” is doused with olive oil and sprinkled with parmesan, Spanish truffle and rocket.
Another pork product — Castilla-style suckling pig served with apple-mushroom compote, celeriac purée and gravy — is cooked sous-vide with herbs before oven-roasting for optimal crackling.
Seafood looms large, too, including deep-fried calamari rings in well-seasoned batter, with lotus root, fresh chilli and mayo foam whipped up with a tantalizing dash of Sri Racha sauce.
Gambas al Ajillo — tender, plump prawns from the Gulf of Thailand cooked and served in a skillet with garlic-infused olive oil, garlic and onion, contrasted with crunchy sourdough baguette dusted with herbs, is as sumptuous as it sounds.
Thyme’s takes on paella, slimmed down to servings for two-three, are equally gratifying. The range of flavours may surprise those who have only encountered the seafood version on upscale buffets. Turns out it’s as versatile — and delectable — as its Italian rival, risotto. Possibly the most piquant is the version with black squid ink infusion into the bomba rice and fish stock. With tender, Atlantic coast octopus tentacles, squid rings, lemon slices and creamy garlic aioli on the side, this is hearty fare of the highest order. Other flavours range chicken & chorizo, Canadian lobster, classic seafood, porcini mushroom & pancetta, and even vegetarian paella with melted goat cheese.
For those who spurn Euro chow, tom yum spaghetti is a stunner. A paste of finely ground Thai herbs and spices forms a delicious sauce that clings to the homemade spaghetti perfectly. Added with grilled king prawn and seafood sauce, what’s not to love?
Some drop by just for the Torrija, a bread and milk loaf with caramelized crust, juxtaposed with dried raspberry, berry coulis, crunchy crushed nuts and vanilla sauce. Another sweet treat — classic churros; cylindrical sweet fritters — dunk delightfully in dark chocolate and caramelised milk sauces.
Craft beers, fruity cocktails and affordable wines flow from the bar.
Being all-day, breakfasts, light lunches and afternoon teas are also served. Moreover, the menu is constantly being refreshed because that’s what Mario and Pranai love doing best.
This source first appeared on Bangkok Post Lifestyle.